There were moments last night during the sale of The Daphne Guinness Collection at Christie’s South Kensington when I felt that I was being whirled around in a global washing machine; bids came in on-line, on the phone and in the packed room from Korea, Germany, Portugal, China, Washington, Germany, New Jersey… and GB of course. 21 countries in all bid in this super-fashion sale plucked by Daphne from her wardrobe to benefit the Isabella Blow Foundation, which she founded in memory of her friend to support young fashion students.

The future of fashion looks a lot brighter this a.m., I can tell you, as the sale fetched £476,800 – over four times the pre-sale estimate of £100,000. A big, big bidder was superstar Lady Gaga who was post-concert in Los Angeles, so represented by her stylist, sitting in the room and nodding – a lot – at James Bruce-Gardyne who, clad in a spiffy blue suit, took the auction brilliantly. Daphne herself admitted she was overwhelmed by how many bidders took part in the sale, which lasted for well over two hours.

An ivory silk tulle empire line gown, The Girl Who Lived In The Tree by Alexander McQueen which realised £85,250

Top of the pops were the drop-dead Alexander McQueen dresses, poignant reminders of Daphne’s very close friendship and collaboration with this genius designer. Two standouts were the ivory silk tulle empire gown The Girl Who Lived in the Tree which fetched £85,250 – the second highest lot and my favourite, the sculptural metallic silvery mini dress which fetched £79,250.

A unique sculptural metallic silver mini dress by Alexander McQueen which sold for £79,250

Christian Lacroix had his devoted fans, too; the Spanish-style white lace dress with a black matador jacket was quite lovely and fetched £16.250.

And what of the shoes? The Alexander McQueen angel wing gold and black platform ankle boots are absolutely iconic and I know will go down in future fashion history books. Someone agreed with me to the tune of £15,000!

Daphne Guinness by Mario Testino

But the top lot was the ethereal Mario Testino photograph of Daphne taken for Vogue in 2008. At £133, 250 this was a new world record for a Testino work and went to Portugal. It was a stellar sale. It was a great and kind gesture on Daphne’s part to fund the future of fashion. And it was such fun!

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Fashion muses like Daphne emerge fully-armed from their glittering chrysalises after six, I think we’d all agree. As dusk falls, sequins start to shiver and shine, gold starts to glitter, feathers start to flutter and grand entrances are made.

A sculptural metallic silver mini dress by Alexander McQueen

This sculptural metallic silver mini dress by Alexander McQueen sums up the story. It turns the body into a shining metal sculpture (supported by a very fitted corset) with undertones of Marie Antoinette in its abbreviated panniers and sweetheart décolletage. Formidable as they would have said at Versailles

An olive green silk grosgrain evening gown by Roberto Capucci

On quite a different note is this superb olive green silk grosgrain evening gown by Robert Capucci, the master of the dress as living sculpture. Their owners value their Capuccis so greatly they are very rarely sold. This dress really is superb in its drop- dead seeming simplicity which isn’t, of course, simple at all.

A lemon yellow satin and hide bubble dress by Christian Lacroix

This saucy little cocktail or clubbing dress by Christian Lacroix dates to his early days as an independent couturier and reflects his twin passions for the cowboy life of the Camargue and for grandee Spain, in his combination of strapless hide bodice and lemon yellow bubble skirt. Young, fun, unexpected.

A black tulle robe de style signature gown by Lanvin

Harking back to the first designs of the couturier Jeanne Lanvin in the 1920s, which were based on 18th century shapes, is this black tulle robe de style signature gown, by Lanvin, Winter 2006. Silver and glass beads are stitched through the bodice, skirts and at the neckline and the all-important crinoline effect is obtained by an aubergine wool under dress.

A dramatic sortie de bal opera coat by Christian Lacroix

Lacroix again – here he does a dramatic sortie de bal opera coat in transparent black silk gazar embellished with printed baroque silk brocade motifs in pink, grey and silver. There are deep ruffles at the neck and sleeves and it is trimmed with black silk ribbons at the shoulders. It’s a fashion happening just waiting for a grand staircase to waft down, isn’t it?

A pair of angel wing gold and black platform ankle boots by Alexander McQueen

And talking of wafting, to finish after dark musings off is this pair of Angel Wing gold and black platform ankle boots by Alexander McQueen. These are a tour de force of black satin uppers and painted gold platforms and heels formed of an angel whose wings in turn form the platform. These shoes are absolute genius; in two hundred years’ time people will still marvel at their baroque beauty.

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Daphne has a penchant for wearing pure line without a lot more going on. You have to have a great eye and a breezy self confidence to wear such strict, plain clothes. But, between the lines, her less-is-more philosophy marks some of the most successful outfits in the sale.

My favourite? Difficult, but being a passionate fan of the first Balenciaga (I buy anything vintage of his that fits), the black cashmere tailored 1940s style jacket with the typical melon shoulder with bronze stud buttons and curved leather bound pockets has the master’s look as brilliantly channelled by Nicolas Ghesquière. Divine!

A charcoal cotton laser cut dress by Azzedine Alaïa

I also love the curvy lines of the charcoal cotton laser cut dress by Azzedine Alaïa (always simply wonderful and wonderfully simple). This has a floral laser cut pattern through which you can see the metallic bronze lining. Masterly.

A vivid purple textured wool coat by Christian Dior

Harking back to another era – the late 1950s – and Yves Saint Laurent’s trapeze line which he introduced in his first collection for Dior in 1958, is another linear star. It’s a vivid purple wool textured wool coat from Christian Dior from the early 1990s. It’s so simple! It has a stand up collar, four vast buttons, wide, below the elbow sleeves and is, well, dramatic. Daphne wore it a lot during her 20s, liking the 1960s references but now she admits she prefers a more fitted look.

A black wool and PVC skirt suit by Chanel

And what could be more fitted or more fabulous than this black wool and PVC skirt suit from Chanel. Enough said!

A black sheer dress with decoupé front by Alexander McQueen

Even more fitted and absolutely beautiful is this black sheer dress with decoupé front cut out which reveals a leaf pattern. This is McQueen beyond fabulous and it is something you could wear at dinner parties forever and always be star!

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Daphne Guinness shares a rare trait with her friend Isabella Blow; both muses were as happy buying something wonderful from some completely unknown young designer grafting away in a down-town garret as they were dressing in the safety zone of international grand labels.

I think this is why this sale is really notable (one might even claim it as a future fashion landmark) because of the combination of the virtually unheralded names whose designs stand up so well and the more mainstream labels in the sale such as Chanel and Balenciaga. These unknown names are the Alexander McQueens of the future, spotted by Daphne at the very beginnings of their careers.

A pale pink silk and sequin chiffon dress by Mandalay

Names like Mandalay whose pale pink chiffon dress, embroidered with silver and opal sequins and crystal details could have been designed in a Paris couture house in the late 1920s – except for the thigh length skirt of course!

A black cocktail dress with white lace guipure flowers by Requiem

From Requiem comes a seemingly demure cocktail dress in black silk gazar (Balenciaga’s favourite fabric by the way) with a pleated bodice and swags of white guipure lace flowers round the waist and down the skirt.  It’s as if a nun had suddenly turned extremely flirtatious!

A silvery-grey metallic evening jacket with feather trim by Silvia Heisel

I’ve no idea who Silvia Heisel is, but she can sure turn out a spectacular evening coat. Its cut like an oversized kimono in silvery grey metallic fabric which looks almost industrial,  and it is lavishly trimmed with white ostrich feathers.  Ooh!

A black cocktail gown by Three as Four

Three as Four is a zen-type label, isn’t it?  So is the black cocktail dress Daphne found from these three/four designers.  It’s made of individual circles of Japonaiserie brocade overlapping, rather as if the wearer were wearing melted Samurai armour.  Odd, but fabulous!

A pair of Lady Bell platform ankle boots by Norikata Tatehana

I’ve got to have a word about the shoes in the sale at this point… and the word is INSANE!  But fabulous.  Most don’t have heels – why should they?  My particular favourite is the pair of bright red Lady Bell Platform Ankle Boots by Noritaka Tatehana which took about eight months to make.  Sure, Daphne has worn them, but she looks on them as pieces of sculpture, more as concept pieces for looking at fashion as art. Which we all know it is, don’t we?

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